Needles and Needle Chart
The needle is one of the most important parts of the machine. It must be crafted to precision, and must be replaced often, to maintain that precision. Each part of the needle serves a purpose, and can be crafted differently, depending on the needs of the sewing application.
The shank holds the needle in the machine. As a general rule, home sewing and embroidery machines use a flat shank, which is rounded with one flat side, and commercial machines use round shank needles.
The shaft helps guide the thread down the needle and into the eye. The groove in the shaft can be different sizes, to hide the thread in the needle as it passes through the fabric. As the needle goes up and down, it rubs against the fabric. Each portion of the thread can run on the fabric approximately 30 times before it becomes implanted in the fabric. This friction can cause threads to heat up, fray, and break. Shaft sizes range from 60/8 to 100/16. The first number is metric millimeters, and the second number is an American number, both representing the diameter of the shaft, not the size of the eye.
The eye comes in different sizes for the same reasons. As the size of the eye increases, the size of the shaft must also increase, so generally a larger shaft will have a larger eye. An eye that is large enough for the thread being used will help reduce drag, friction, breakage, and damage to the thread surface. It also allows easier rethreading.
The scarf is the cutaway part of the shaft that's just above the eye. It allows the hook to pass by and grab the thread as the needle moves upwards. The size and shape of the scarf plays a role in the consistency of stitching with various threads and fabrics.
The point is the "business end" of the needle. Ballpoint needles are used for knits and other stretchy fabrics. The rounded points will cause the needle to slip between the fabric threads to prevent cutting the fabric and causing it to unravel. Instead, it pushes the knit over, forcing itself in between the fibers. Sharp needles are used for cottons and other woven fabrics that won't unravel. Sharps cut through the fibers, and deliver the thread with less push and pull on the fabric. Needles dull quickly. A general rule of thumb is to change your needle every new garment, or every eight hours.
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Sizes of Needles |
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Size |
Uses |
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60/8 |
Silk, organza, or any ultra-light fabric where you don't want needle holes to show, size 50-60 thread |
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70/10 |
Light cottons, light weight fabrics, size 40-50 thread |
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80/12 |
Jersey knit, cottons, medium weight fabrics, size 40 thread |
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90/14 |
Jersey knit, light denim, cottons, medium weight fabrics, doubled threads, metallic threads, other specialty threads, 35-40 wt thread |
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100/16 |
Denim, canvas, heavy fabrics, heavy threads such as upholstery thread |
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Types of Needles |
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Ball Point |
Ballpoint needles are used for knits and other stretchy fabrics. The rounded points will cause the needle to slip between the fabric threads to prevent cutting the fabric and causing it to unravel. Instead, it pushes the knit over, forcing itself in between the fibers. |
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Sharp Point |
Sharp needles are used for cottons and other woven fabrics that won't unravel. Sharps cut through the fibers, and deliver the thread with less push and pull on the fabric. |
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Denim |
Denim needles have a sharp point, slender eye, and strong shaft. |
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Embroidery |
Embroidery needles have a sharp point, and large eye. The scarf is designed to protect various specialty threads. The distance between the point and the eye is shorter, so that the needle can raise up higher and clear the embroidered design area. |
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Leather |
Leather needles have a wedge shaped point and a strong shaft to cut the leather cleanly |
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Metallic |
Metallic needles have a larger eye, deeper groove, and the scarf is designed to protect the metallic threads. The metafil needle has an elongated, teflon coated eye, fine shaft, and medium sharp point. |
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Quilting |
Quilting needles have a tapered point for stitching through multiple layers and to minimize damage to the fabric of the quilt. |
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Topstitch |
Topstitch needles have an extra-large eye and deep groove to use with heavier fabrics or threads. It can accommodate two strands of thread for specialty stitching. |
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Twin Needle |
Twin needles are used for two strands of thread, sewn side by side. One spool is placed on the vertical spool pin and the other spool is placed on the horizontal spool pin. They are threaded one by one, through the same thread guides, then into separate sides of the twin needles. |
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Wing Needle |
Wing needles are used in heirloom sewing. They have slender wings on each side, and a sharp point. The point cuts a hole in the fabric and the wings push the adjacent fabric to the side, forming a large hole, which is often stitched around the edges to make a decorative hole. These are often stitched in a series as part of a decorative stitch pattern. |
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Chart by Diamond Threadworks |
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