|
Here's a machine embroidery chart to help determine which needle, thread, and
backing to use with different types of fabrics. Please feel free to
contact me if you see any errors or would like to add some
additions.
Click
here for printable Word document
Click
here for printable PDF document
|
Embroidery Chart - page 1
|
|
Fabric Type
|
Thread weight
|
Needle
|
Backing
|
Topping
|
Other Considerations
|
|
Aida
|
40
|
75/11 S
|
A-T, T, or H2O-T
|
|
There’s no need to worry about lining up the squares
on the Aida cloth with the squares on the cross-stitch machine embroidery
design. It’s practically
impossible to do, and most people will never notice if they’re not lined
up. The Aida cloth gives the
appearance that the embroidery is done by hand.
|
|
Balsa Wood
|
40
|
75/11-90/14 S, or metallica
|
A-T, T or H2O-T
|
none or WS
|
Wetting WS may make wood curl. Dry flat under
weights. Wet wood swells, and
becomes softer and easier to penetrate.
Water can stain wood, so if you get it wet, get it wet all over, so
the stain doesn’t show. You
don’t have to get it wet, that’s just some advice in case you choose
to. Use a new needle, as
paper and wood cause needles to dull quickly, and dull needles can split
wood.
|
|
Blanket Material
|
40
|
75/11 BP
|
C or H2O-C
|
Tu or WS
|
Needs good underlayer if WS used.
|
|
Broadcloth
|
40
|
75/11 S
|
A-T, T or H2O-T
|
|
|
|
Canvas
|
30-40
|
80/12-100/16 S
|
A-T, T or H2O-T
|
|
|
|
Chenille
|
40
|
75/11-90/14 S or BP
|
A-T, T or H2O-T
|
Tu or WS
|
|
|
Chiffon
|
40-60
|
60/8-75/11 S
|
Ha or WS
|
none or WS
|
|
|
Corduroy
|
40
|
75/11 -90/14 S or BP
|
Ha if not to be washed. C, H2O-C, T, or H2O-T
if washable.
|
WS if washable.
|
Needs to have good underlayer built into design.
|
|
Cotton-handkerchief
|
50-60
|
60/8-70/10 S
|
Ha, A-T, T, or H2O-T.
|
|
Use a lightweight stabilizer.
|
|
Cotton-quilting wt
|
40
|
75/11-85/12 S
|
A-T, T or H2O-T
|
|
|
|
Cotton-heavy wt
|
30-40
|
90/14-100/16 S
|
A-T, T, or H2O-T
|
|
|
|
Crochet or Knit yarn items
|
40
|
75/11-90/14 BP
|
A-T, T, or H2O-T
|
Tu or WS
|
Hoop stabilizer, adhere item to stabilizer.
Use topping to help keep stitches from sinking into the yarn.
Use a design with a good underlay if you use WS, or the stitches
will sink after the WS is washed away.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Key: A-Adhesive,
BP-Ball Point, C-Cutaway, F-Fusible, Ha-Heataway, H2O-Hydrostick or
Wet-N-Set, Ny-No Show Nylon Mesh or Polymesh, S-Sharp, T-Tearaway, Tu-Tulle,
WS-Water Soluble
|
|
Chart
prepared by Diamond Threadworks
www.diamondthreadworks.com
|
|
Embroidery Chart – page 2
|
|
Fabric Type |
Thread Weight |
Needle |
Backing |
Topping |
Other Considerations |
|
Denim |
30-40 |
80/12-100/16 Denim needle
|
C, Ny, F-Ny or H2O-C
|
|
|
|
Fake Fur |
40 |
75/11-90/14 BP |
H2O-C |
Tu or WS |
Needs good underlayer if WS used |
|
Felt |
40 |
75/11-90/14 S or BP
|
A-T, H2O-C or H2O-T
|
|
Everything looks good on felt, because it
pushes and pulls with your embroidery, and nearly always lays flat.
Okay to use for sample books, but don’t use for actual customer
samples or they will be disappointed if the design doesn’t look as good
on their actual item.
|
|
Fleece
|
40
|
75/11 or 80/12 BP
|
F-Ny or H2O-C
|
Tu or WS
|
|
|
Gauze
|
40-60
|
60/8-75/11 S or BP
|
Ha or WS
|
none or WS
|
|
|
Herculon
|
30-40
|
9/14-100/16 S
|
A-T, T, H2O-T, C, or H2O-C
|
|
|
|
Jute or Hemp woven
|
30-40
|
80/12-100/16 S
|
A-T, T, H2O-T, C, H2O-C, Ny, or
F-Ny
|
|
|
|
Knit Cotton
|
40
|
75/11-90/14 BP
|
C, H2O-C, Ny, or
F-Ny
|
|
Use adhesive spray with C or Ny
|
|
Knit Fleece
|
40
|
75/11 or 80/12 BP
|
F-Ny or H2O-C
|
Tu or WS
|
|
|
Leather
|
40
|
Leather needle
Don’t use BP
|
C, H2O-C, T, H2O-T, or Ny
|
|
Make sure leather dye is colorfast to water before
using H2O. Leather stretches
when wet, and it also softens, making needle penetration easier.
Water stains leather, so anytime you get it wet, wet it all over,
so the stain doesn’t show. Allow to dry if you use H2O backing. May need to reduce density slightly on design, to avoid
perforating. Heavier thread will help prevent gaps from reduced
density, but may not be necessary. Soft
leather is less likely to be damaged than stiff leather.
Test on similar type leather.
Use minimum amount/weight of stabilizer, if you use any at all.
If possible, hoop only the stabilizer, and stick the leather to it.
If not possible, then hoop before tightening.
Loosen hoop before unhooping.
Wrap hoops in tape to help minimize hoop marks.
Steam or spray with magic sizing and use suede brush and circular
motion to remove hoop marks. If
customer supplies the garment, have them sign off that they understand
that you only take responsibility for embroidery work, not for damage to
the leather.
|
|
Key: A-Adhesive,
BP-Ball Point, C-Cutaway, F-Fusible, Ha-Heataway, H2O-Hydrostick or
Wet-N-Set, Ny-No Show Nylon Mesh or Polymesh, S-Sharp, T-Tearaway, Tu-Tulle,
WS-Water Soluble
|
|
Chart
prepared by Diamond Threadworks
www.diamondthreadworks.com
|
|
Embroidery Chart for Fabrics – page
3
|
|
Fabric Type
|
Thread weight
|
Needle
|
Backing
|
Topping
|
Other Considerations
|
|
Linen
|
40
|
75/11 or 90/14S
|
Ha, A-T, T, or H2O-T
|
|
|
|
Lycra
|
40-60
|
75/11 – 90/14 BP
|
C, F-Ny, H2O-C, or Ny
|
|
Use adhesive spray with C or Ny.
Don’t stretch while hooping.
Better to hoop the stabilizer, then stick Lycra to the backing and
baste in the hoop if needed for added stability.
|
|
Muslin
|
40
|
75/11-90/14 S
|
C or H2O-C
|
|
|
| Nylon Flag or umbrella fabric
|
40-60
|
75/11 – 90/14 S
|
A-T, A-WS, H2O-T, T, or WS
|
|
Use a heavy WS, or iron several sheets together.
Don’t stretch the WS when you hoop it, or it will tear once
it’s perforated and the fabric will pucker around the design.
Use the same color bobbin thread as your top thread if the back
side will show. Don’t hoop
the nylon too tight, or it will pucker when it’s released from the hoop.
Wrap the hoop with tape or rubber shelf liner to minimize slipping.
For umbrellas, pull the end caps off, snip the threads that hold
the seams to the metal spines, and hoop the fabric.
You will have to sew the seams back onto the spines by hand after
you embroider the design.
|
| Nylon Pantyhose |
50-60 |
60/18-70/10 BP |
WS |
WS |
Embroider slowly. Use adhesive spray. |
|
Nylon woven strap, webbing, or dog collar
|
30-40
|
90/14-100/16 S
|
A-T, T, H2O-T, C, or H2O-C
|
|
Print the image in actual size, right on the
stabilizer. Hoop the
stabilizer, making sure to center it accurately, and adhere the strap to
it. If your placement is off,
patch the hole from the back with another piece of stabilizer, and your
hole will show your exact placement.
Another way to mark your placement is to first embroider the design
on the backing, without using any thread.
|
|
Organza
|
50-60
|
60/8-70/10 S
|
WS or Organza
|
WS
|
|
|
Paper (any weight)
|
40-60
|
70/10-90/14 S
|
A-T, C, Ny, T, H2O-T, H2O-C, or WS
|
|
Use adhesive spray with C, Ny, T, or WS.
Hoop backing and stick paper to it to avoid creases or hoop marks.
If you intend to remove backing, only use thin T or WS with a light
coat of adhesive spray, and do not use water to remove WS.
Best designs are those that are not too dense and have no underlay.
Enlarge designs slightly to reduce density, if needed.
Avoid designs with an outline, which will cut out the design from
the paper.
|
|
Pique
|
40-60
|
70/10-80/12 BP
|
Ny, F-Ny, C, or H2O-C
|
none or WS
|
Looks crisper and stays above fabric better if a
good underlay is present in the design.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Key: A-Adhesive,
BP-Ball Point, C-Cutaway, F-Fusible, Ha-Heataway, H2O-Hydrostick or
Wet-N-Set, Ny-No Show Nylon Mesh or Polymesh, S-Sharp, T-Tearaway, Tu-Tulle,
WS-Water Soluble
|
|
Chart
prepared by Diamond Threadworks
www.diamondthreadworks.com
|
|
Embroidery Chart for Fabrics – page
4
|
|
Fabric Type
|
Thread weight
|
Needle
|
Backing
|
Topping
|
Other Considerations
|
|
Polar Fleece
|
40
|
75/11-90/14 BP
|
C, H2O-C, Ny, or F-Ny
|
Tu or WS
|
Needs good underlayer if WS used. Use
adhesive spray with C or Ny
|
|
Polyester Knit
|
40
|
75/11-90/14 BP
|
C, H2O-C, Ny, or F-Ny
|
|
Use adhesive spray with C or Ny
|
|
Ribbon
|
40-60
|
70/10-90/14 S
|
A-T, H2O-T, or T
|
|
Hoop backing, draw placement lines on back if
needed (it shows through to the front) and stick ribbon onto it.
Use adhesive spray for T
|
|
Satin
|
40-60
|
60/8-70/10 BP
|
Ny, F-Ny
|
|
|
|
Silk
|
50-60
|
60/8-70/10 BP
|
Ny, F-Ny
|
|
Don't use H2O or WS, as water may stain silk.
|
|
Spandex
|
40-60
|
75/11 – 90/14 BP
|
C, F-Ny, H2O-C, or Ny
|
|
Use adhesive spray with C or Ny.
Don’t stretch while hooping.
Better to hoop the stabilizer, then stick spandex to the backing
and baste in the hoop if needed for added stability.
|
|
Terry cloth
|
40
|
75/11-90/14 S or BP
|
T or H2O-T
|
Tu or WS
|
Needs good underlayer if WS used. Wet
thoroughly before removing H2O.
|
|
Toilet paper
|
40-60
|
70/10-90/14 S
|
A-T, C, Ny, T, H2O-T, H2O-C, or WS
|
|
Use adhesive spray with C, Ny, T, or WS.
Hoop backing and stick paper to it.
Best designs are those that are not too dense and have no underlay.
Enlarge designs slightly to reduce density, if needed. Unroll the end of the paper, and discard the first few
sheets. Embroider on the
third or fourth sheet from the new end.
Remove backing from hoop, and trim backing to fit the toilet paper
square. Roll up the squares
at the end of the roll, and use adhesive spray to stick them to the back
of the embroidered square.
|
|
Tricot
|
50-60
|
70/10-75/11 BP
|
Ny or F-Ny
|
|
Use adhesive spray with Ny
|
|
Trigger
|
40
|
75/11-90/14 BP
|
C, H2O-C, Ny, or F-Ny
|
|
|
|
T-Shirt knit
|
40
|
75/11-90/14 BP
|
C, H2O-C, Ny, or F-Ny
|
|
Use adhesive spray with C or Ny
|
|
Tulle
|
40-60
|
60/8-80/12 S or BP
|
Tu or WS
|
Tu or WS
|
|
|
Upholstery Fabric
|
30-40
|
90/14-100/16 S
|
A-T, T, H2O-T, C, or H2O-C
|
|
Hoop the stabilizer, not the fabric, and adhere the
fabric to it. Use a basting
stitch to keep heavy fabric from pulling off the stabilizer.
|
|
Velvet
|
40
|
75/11-80/12 S
|
Ha
|
Ha
|
Don't use water-removable stabilizers on velvet.
Design needs to have good underlayer built in.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Key: A-Adhesive,
BP-Ball Point, C-Cutaway, F-Fusible, Ha-Heataway, H2O-Hydrostick or
Wet-N-Set, Ny-No Show Nylon Mesh or Polymesh, S-Sharp, T-Tearaway, Tu-Tulle,
WS-Water Soluble
|
|
Chart
prepared by Diamond Threadworks
www.diamondthreadworks.com
|
|
Embroidery Chart for Fabrics – page
5
|
|
Fabric Type
|
Thread weight
|
Needle
|
Backing
|
Topping
|
Other Considerations
|
|
Vinyl
|
40
|
Leather needle
|
A-T, C, H2O-C, T, or H2O-T
|
|
To keep vinyl from sticking to the machine, cover
the vinyl with tissue paper, wax paper, or freezer paper, and tear it off
afterwards. You can
also try powder on the vinyl and your hands, but be careful about getting
it down into your machine. If
you do, vacuum it out, don’t blow it in further.
You could spray some Teflon spray or silicone spray on a paper
towel and wipe it on the machine. You
could tape a Teflon pressing sheet to the machine, over the throat plate,
or just place some wide masking tape there.
For regular sewing, use a roller foot, Teflon foot, walking foot,
or a dual feed foot.
|
|
Window Screen
|
40
|
90/14–100/16 S
|
A-T, T, or H2O-T
|
|
Only use nylon, polyester, or vinyl screen, not
metal. Use non-stick pressing
sheet and low heat to protect iron and prevent melting. Don’t slide iron, just press, lift, and move to prevent
stretching. Cut handles on
bias of grain to lay flatter. Use
black thread and black bias tape for edges.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |